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Page 5 - Friday 16th June - Fontevraud L'Abbeye

 

 

I'm not sure how Ian came to choose the Hotel La Croix Blanche at Fontevraud L'Abbeye as our Friday overnight stop however, as is so often the case, it turned out to be quite an inspired choice.  The 'Jeep crew had left the circuit and arrived at the hotel some time before us and of course had already nabbed all the best rooms.  Peter and I shared a room which was excellent (even if the toilet seemed to have been designed for use only by those suffering from acute anorexia with a season ticket at WeightWatchers....).  It was really hot now and we were roasting by the time we put our bags in our rooms.  The 'Jeep crew' already had several bottles of wine on the go but I had been dreaming of a glass of French cider for hours and when it arrived, I wasn't disappointed.  As you will see, among my photos are a few rarities - photos of me!  Chris grabbed my camera and insisted on taking a few shots.  There was a feeling of great contentment around the tables, here we were, well into the depths of France in what seemed to be a marvelous location, in fantastic weather and with our own very good company.  What more could you ask for?



We had arrived at about 5 pm and had plenty of time in hand as we wouldn't be eating until about 8.30.  Fontevraud is situation just 5 kilometers or so from the Loire and about 20 kilometers from Saumur, the nearest large town that we visited in 1997.  Having slaked our thirsts it was time to explore the small place, very tidy and picturesque with a couple of shops and a hotel but unsurprisingly it also had an abbey...  I had looked the place up on the internet a few weeks before and discovered that the abbey is quite a celebrated place in historical terms.  It was founded at the end of the 11th century by a Breton priest named Robert d'Arbrissel and the abbey was very prosperous and work began on a magnificent church in 1101.Just before he died d'Arbrissel delegated his authority to the delightfully named Pertronille de Chemille and it became a unique convent of men, ruled over by an abbess!  Succeeding abbesses were often of royal blood.  In much later years I understand that the abbey was used as a prison but the authorities have set about restoring it to it's former glory.  Within the abbey you will find the effigy of Richard, Coeur de Lion, or as we know him better, Richard the Lionheart.  The abbey contains the effigies of Eleanor of Guienne, her son Richard, Henry ll and a smaller wooden effigy of King John, who died in 1218.  The most fascinating feature is the Tour d'Evrault which is pyramidal in shape and was used as the abbey kitchen.  There was quite an eerie feeling in the building, lightened when Clive decided to check the acoustics by bursting into song!  


We compelted our little tour around 7.15 pm and headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.  I hurried to shower, expecting Peter to want to use it, only to realise that on their return the others had gone back to the bar!  I rested up and watched some coverage of Le Mans on Eurosport.  Peter finally arrived for his shower and I went down to the bar and joined Jeff to chat about his new life in Spain.  Then it was on to dinner with the chance to play another game of 'Confuse the French Waitress'.  She was very good-natured though and put up with our banter and minimalist French with good humour - as they generally do!  The meal was good although I skipped the fish course (later wishing I hadn't when it arrived).  I had pate for starter and then steak with shallots.  For pudding it was crême brulée.  The weather being so fine, we were able to dine outdoors.  


After the meal we went for another walk around Fontevraud - it was brief as there wasn't a lot to see!  But it was good to take the air (if only to dilute the calvados a little) before heading back to our rooms for a well-earned rest.  

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